Broke and Bespoke

A site meant to inspire penurious sartorialists everywhere... Follow me on Twitter @brokeandbespoke


* Unless otherwise noted, all images and written content are my own. Please credit brokeandbespoke if you use any of said content and link back to brokeandbespoke.tumblr.com

I love the last, welt (esp. the contrast of the stitching), grain, and color on these vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial derbys. They weigh a ton, but feel nearly indestructible for it. I think I’ll try to wear them a bit more often than I do, as they’re a perfect shoe for the more casual jeans, OCBD, and odd jacket look I’ve been favoring lately.

Tie: Vintage Abercrombie & Fitch, thrifted $2

Tie: Vintage Abercrombie & Fitch, thrifted $2

Vintage L. L. Bean Goatskin Bomber

Vintage L. L. Bean Goatskin Bomber

I Guess This is Vintage Now??
This is a vintage—by which I mean circa early-to-mid-90s—Jandd Mountaineering (made in Santa Barbara, CA) backpack that I carried through the end of high school, throughout college, and into my early years in graduate school. 
Once, I even had a hand-scrawled note left on my bicycle in Ann Arbor, MI by a fellow grad student who was convinced I’d stolen it from him because he knew how rare they were—especially in the midwest. He even offered to let me return it to him with no questions asked.
He noted that his particular pack had a unique stain in it that could prove beyond a shadow of a doubt his certainty that I’d absconded with his bag at some point. He also left his email address should I be so bold as to contact him. I emailed him back immediately (from the computer center, phones couldn’t do that sort of thing then…) letting him know I’d be happy to meet and have him examine the bag to his heart’s content, certain as I was that I’d purchased it myself. It was both the last time I heard from him, and the last time anyone has accused me of stealing a sweet out-of-production Jandd Mountaineering backpack.

I Guess This is Vintage Now??

This is a vintage—by which I mean circa early-to-mid-90s—Jandd Mountaineering (made in Santa Barbara, CA) backpack that I carried through the end of high school, throughout college, and into my early years in graduate school. 

Once, I even had a hand-scrawled note left on my bicycle in Ann Arbor, MI by a fellow grad student who was convinced I’d stolen it from him because he knew how rare they were—especially in the midwest. He even offered to let me return it to him with no questions asked.

He noted that his particular pack had a unique stain in it that could prove beyond a shadow of a doubt his certainty that I’d absconded with his bag at some point. He also left his email address should I be so bold as to contact him. I emailed him back immediately (from the computer center, phones couldn’t do that sort of thing then…) letting him know I’d be happy to meet and have him examine the bag to his heart’s content, certain as I was that I’d purchased it myself. It was both the last time I heard from him, and the last time anyone has accused me of stealing a sweet out-of-production Jandd Mountaineering backpack.

The Leather Cafe Racer

I love a great leather jacket—preferably vintage, but new is ok too. I especially love a vintage leather cafe racer—the kind of jacket seen here with a short Mandarin, band, or Nehru collar that generally has a snap button closure. It was perhaps made most famous as the style preferred by Peter Fonda in Easy Rider (1969).

Though the more classic motorcycle jacket design is arguably the double breasted one worn by Marlon Brando in The Wild One (1953)—his was a Schott Perfecto—and prevalent throughout the 40s and 50s, I think it’s much easier to pull off the less complicated cafe racer for day-to-day wear, especially if you don’t ride a motorcycle.

Vintage cafe racers abound on ebay, and run the gamut from very affordable (for the less collectible ones) to quite expensive (for collectible ones), and since the double breasted look is enjoying a fashion renaissance right now it’s a great time to find a good deal on its less trendy younger sibling. The one pictured here is a vintage Fidelity cowhide racer. It’s got some great graining on it, and if I recall correctly I bought it on ebay maybe 5 or 6 years ago for under $50.

Brands off the top of my head to look out for on ebay are: Vanson, Schott, Brooks, Langlitz, Lewis Leathers, Brimaco, Bristol, Johnson Leathers, Bates, Buco, Aero, Just Leathers, Montgomery Ward, JC Penney, Drospo, Lesco, Fidelity, and Champlain Leather. Some of these are the pricier ones, some are not. Just type in the brand followed by “cafe racer” and see what you turn up. Or, if you want to search broadly for a steal, just type in “vintage leather cafe racer” and start scrolling!

Vintage Natural Shoulder Goodness from Brooks Brothers

Like the W.W. Chan blazer I posted this morning, this one also only cost $1.50 at an estate sale over the weekend.

Double Four-in-Hand and Madras Plaid.

Double Four-in-Hand and Madras Plaid.

Stripes

Stripes

Cotton for days.

Cotton for days.

Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren Necktie

Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren Necktie

Blue, Orange, and Brown.

Blue, Orange, and Brown.

One of These is Not Like the Other…

Four of the seven jackets in yesterday’s epic haul. The top one and the bottom two are vintage pieces from Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and Southwick, respectively, and all cut in the traditional ivy style: undarted, 3 roll 2 lapel, center vented, and with a 2 button cuff. The third jacket, a more recent Polo Ralph Lauren by Corneliani is a nice thick tweed, but features a regular soft rolling 2 button lapel, 4 buttons cuffs, and a center vent as well.

Friday 2/15/13
Pocket Square: Vintage 1954 Calendar Hanky, thrifted $2
Jacket: Brooks Brothers, thrifted $15
Shirt: Brooks Brothers University Stripe OCBD, thrifted $3.50
Rx Sunglasses: Lookmatic “Ricky,” review here 

Friday 2/15/13

Pocket Square: Vintage 1954 Calendar Hanky, thrifted $2

Jacket: Brooks Brothers, thrifted $15

Shirt: Brooks Brothers University Stripe OCBD, thrifted $3.50

Rx Sunglasses: Lookmatic “Ricky,” review here 

Traditional.

Americana
Vintage Brooks Brothers x 2. Navy sack blazer with swelled seams, 3 patch pockets, and a 3 roll 2 lapel. Vintage silk foulard necktie.

Americana

Vintage Brooks Brothers x 2. Navy sack blazer with swelled seams, 3 patch pockets, and a 3 roll 2 lapel. Vintage silk foulard necktie.