Broke and Bespoke

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To be honest, the weather has been much too cold for me to want to don shirt and tie for the last week or so. Thus, the random posts with me in a pea coat, duffle coat, etc. Yesterday, however, despite still low temperatures, I missed the feel of a nice sport coat. And, since it was in fact the coldest day of this spell, I layered up with a cable knit lambswool crewneck sweater from Brooks Bros., a vintage tweed sport coat from Southwick, and my Gloverall duffle coat over it all. The bow tie is one I bought last year from the Tie Bar’s special Jesse Tyler Ferguson tietheknot.org line of ties where proceeds go to support marriage equality in the U.S.     

To be honest, the weather has been much too cold for me to want to don shirt and tie for the last week or so. Thus, the random posts with me in a pea coat, duffle coat, etc. Yesterday, however, despite still low temperatures, I missed the feel of a nice sport coat. And, since it was in fact the coldest day of this spell, I layered up with a cable knit lambswool crewneck sweater from Brooks Bros., a vintage tweed sport coat from Southwick, and my Gloverall duffle coat over it all. The bow tie is one I bought last year from the Tie Bar’s special Jesse Tyler Ferguson tietheknot.org line of ties where proceeds go to support marriage equality in the U.S.     

Though I was saddened by the collapse of the professoriate outlined in the article, I am horrified at the prospect that its future (if it has one) could be tweedless.

Though I was saddened by the collapse of the professoriate outlined in the article, I am horrified at the prospect that its future (if it has one) could be tweedless.

Details.

Jacket: Brioni, thrifted $20
Shirt: Luxire, courtesy of Luxire (review here)
Tie: Vintage Yale Co-Op Repp, estate sale $1.50
Pants: Dockers Alpha Khaki, courtesy of Dockers
Socks: Cashmere blend from the Gap circa 2006, $1.99 (I bought them all)
Shoes: Allen Edmonds Brookwood, thrifted $9

Jacket: Brioni, thrifted $20

Shirt: Luxire, courtesy of Luxire (review here)

Tie: Vintage Yale Co-Op Repp, estate sale $1.50

Pants: Dockers Alpha Khaki, courtesy of Dockers

Socks: Cashmere blend from the Gap circa 2006, $1.99 (I bought them all)

Shoes: Allen Edmonds Brookwood, thrifted $9

Blues.

Blues.

Jacket: Polo Ralph Lauren by Corneliani, thrifted $17
Shirt: Brooks Brothers slim fit OCBD, thrifted $5 (iirc)
Tie: Luciano Barbera, thrifted $2
Pocket Square: Kent Wang, gift
Pants: Dockers Khaki Waders, $19.99

Jacket: Polo Ralph Lauren by Corneliani, thrifted $17

Shirt: Brooks Brothers slim fit OCBD, thrifted $5 (iirc)

Tie: Luciano Barbera, thrifted $2

Pocket Square: Kent Wang, gift

Pants: Dockers Khaki Waders, $19.99

Like Vox said, there’s just something perfect about tweed and ancient madder. Though I’m under no illusions that there aren’t elements of this outfit which he would likely frown upon. 

Like Vox said, there’s just something perfect about tweed and ancient madder. Though I’m under no illusions that there aren’t elements of this outfit which he would likely frown upon. 

Patch, patch, patch.

Patch, patch, patch.

Reprising a successful composition…
Jacket: Beijing Bespoke, $80
Shirt: Lands’ End Tailored Fit, $12
Tie: Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren, thrifted $2
Pocket Square: Vintage Liberty of London, thrifted $2

Reprising a successful composition…


Jacket: Beijing Bespoke, $80

Shirt: Lands’ End Tailored Fit, $12

Tie: Vintage Polo Ralph Lauren, thrifted $2

Pocket Square: Vintage Liberty of London, thrifted $2

The Brooks Get-up: OCBD and Sack Coat.

The Brooks Get-up: OCBD and Sack Coat.

Heavy Tweed and Jeans.

Heavy Tweed and Jeans.

Blue, Orange, and Brown.

Blue, Orange, and Brown.

One of These is Not Like the Other…

Four of the seven jackets in yesterday’s epic haul. The top one and the bottom two are vintage pieces from Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and Southwick, respectively, and all cut in the traditional ivy style: undarted, 3 roll 2 lapel, center vented, and with a 2 button cuff. The third jacket, a more recent Polo Ralph Lauren by Corneliani is a nice thick tweed, but features a regular soft rolling 2 button lapel, 4 buttons cuffs, and a center vent as well.

Southwick at Cable Car Clothiers

I’m a huge fan of Southwick, and couldn’t be happier about the renaissance they’re enjoying right now. But a shop that has long offered Southwick, and as evident form the last picture above, with very little change, is San Francisco’s trad mecca Cable Car Clothiers.

I had a lot of fun trying on all kinds of beautiful Southwick Harris Tweed sport coats yesterday. My favorite was probably this thick green donegal, flecked with all sorts of beautiful oranges, reds, purples, greens, and blues.

Note that the jacket hanging on the rack in the bottom picture is one of my favorite pieces, a Cable Car Clothiers tweed jacket from—I was told yesterday—the 1970s. It’s not a Harris Tweed, but is a Scottish shetland from I know not what mill. But, the era of huge lapels and overly built-up shoulders saw the continuation of the natural shouldered patch flap pocket look at Cable Car Clothiers. These two jackets, over 30 years apart in age, bear more than a striking resemblance to each other.

Though fashions change, and we are in a moment where the natural shouldered style of the ‘ivy’ look is once again fashionable, it is also true that neither of these jackets will ever look out of place in someone’s winter warbdrobe. 

Allen Edmonds Park Avenue in Walnut Grain Calf, thrifted $4

Allen Edmonds Park Avenue in Walnut Grain Calf, thrifted $4