Broke and Bespoke

A site meant to inspire penurious sartorialists everywhere... Follow me on Twitter @brokeandbespoke


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Sneak Peek: Packing…

Sneak Peek: Packing…

Fit Pic Triptych.

Jacket: Southwick, thrifted $15

Shirt: Uniqlo, $20

Belt: Narragansett Leathers, $35

Jeans: Gustin Jeans, courtesy of Gustin

Socks: Corgi, Barneys New York outlet $7

Shoes: Red Wing Wabasha, Nordstrom Rack $55

Red Wing Wabasha

Red Wing Wabasha

WIWY: 1/20/13

WIWY: 1/20/13

Shoes: Red Wing Wabasha

Shoes: Red Wing Wabasha

At the intersection of Casual Friday and Holiday Party.

The Schott Pea Coat

The pea coat is a perennially popular winter coat. Its timeless double breasted design, original functionality of keeping navy men warm at sea, and wide availability across a number of different price points make it a go to in cold weather for men and women of all ages and styles. 

Schott NYC's pea coats (Schott has, in the past, held the U.S. Navy contract) are an American classic, and are widely available on ebay, in army and navy surplus stores, at flea markets, and in thrift shops. I purchased mine on deep clearance for about $80 years ago at a brick and mortar shop in Ann Arbor, MI when I was a grad student. It kept me warm through many any icy and snowy Michigan winter. They retail now for a bit over $200, but are well worth the investment if you're looking for a warm American-made winter coat that will never go out of style, and you can easily find them priced pretty far under the MSRP.

They make a slim fit version too, but mine is the original cut, and I feel they run pretty true to size. I wear a pretty standard 40R off the rack, and my pea coat is a 40R, and fits a chunky sweater underneath quite comfortably. If I were buying one now I might try a 38, especially so if I thought I’d rarely need to layer anything heavy underneath.

Casual and rainy Friday…
Shoes: Red Wing Chukka, purchased NWOT @ Crossroads Trading Co. $36
Jeans: APC New Standard, gift from friend

Casual and rainy Friday…

Shoes: Red Wing Chukka, purchased NWOT @ Crossroads Trading Co. $36

Jeans: APC New Standard, gift from friend

Shoes: Red Wing ‘Wabasha’ Boat Shoe, Nordstrom Rack $50 (picked up 3 pairs, sold 2 pair for over $100 each, and kept these for myself)

Socks: J. Crew, gift

Pants: Dockers Khaki Wader, Urban Outfitters clearance $19.99

Shirt: Lands’ End Tailored Fit, $22

Tie: Lands’ End Direct Merchants Wool/Mohair Knit Tie, thrifted $2

Jacket: The Gap, thrifted $7.50

My Red Wings. Together, they cost me -$120. Shop smart and you can win almost every time.

Hart Schaffner & Marx: Reloaded for the Twenty-First Century

So I really am looking forward to wearing this vintage Hart Schaffner & Marx (HSM) tweed jacket a lot in the upcoming colder months. It’s made of a thick Irish Donegal tweed that is a dark olive/tan herringbone. The jacket has a center hook vent and swelled seams, is 3/4 lined, has very natural shoulders, and the de rigueur 2 button cuff of the Ivy League style. A traditionalist’s tweed dreams come true.

This is probably the oldest HSM jacket I’ve found thrifting, and one of the finest. I rarely buy HSM stuff when I’m thrifting, because so much of it looks so dated and is often constructed with stiff fused canvas chest pieces. But HSM is a storied American suit manufacturer whose origins date back to the turn of the last century, and they have been known to, and do again now, produce high quality menswear. The company fell on some hard times in the 70s-2000s, both financially and stylistically, but their new offerings (which can be found at Nordstrom, and elsewhere too I’m sure) are quite nice.

A cursory google search shows that the company was purchased in 2009 by an Indian apparel and textile firm, S. Kumars, which seems to be steering the company back in the right direction. I just saw a gorgeous unstructured 3/4 lined tweed jacket at Nordstrom Rack this last weekend with very up-to-date detailing: double vent, patch pockets, surgeon’s cuffs, etc. I also saw a nice navy gingham unstructured sport coat with light grey elbow patches—the designers at HSM clearly know their #menswear, and seem to be reaching out to that customer. I say it’s definitely a brand worth checking out again; an Indian-owned American company which has kept production in the U.S. that is turning out well-made clothing which stays on top of the Italian-inspired trends that continue to dominate the fashion-forward sector of menswear. If that’s your bag, I say give HSM a peek. 

* Summer styles are actually on pretty deep discount on the HSM website right now.

Fall Preview: Dockers Alpha Khaki and Tweed…
My favorite season is fall. It’s not too hot, it’s not too cold, and one can wear layers. Oh, and the tweed gets to come out of storage. I’ve been thinking about ways to wear some of the great colors of Alpha Khakis that Dockers recently sent me, and as soon as I found this jacket I knew these were the pants to go with it. 
I bought this jacket last week at a Salvation Army “$3 for (almost) everything” sale, and am really looking forward to wearing it this fall and winter. It’s a vintage Hart Schaffner & Marx tweed jacket and is quite professorial…
I’m pairing the dark olive herringbone jacket here with a pair of dark blue/charcoal greyish looking pair of Dockers Alpha Khakis in a color called Smokey Aqua. I think dark grey (or navy blue) and olive work beautifully together, and are a solid enough base on which to begin thinking about injecting a little character and being a little more bold with your neckwear or sock choice/s. 
I’ve opted here to cut through some of the fog of the fall weather with a touch of red. The socks are quite bold, and play nicely with the red in the tie, which itself has the same bluish-grey that is the color of the pants. An outfit like this cries out for a rugged shoe that can tromp through mud on the way to deliver a lecture. These Red Wing Wabasha Oxfords fit the bill perfectly.
*     *     *     *     *
Jacket: Hart Schaffner & Marx, thrifted $3
Shirt: Vintage Gitman Bros. (not Gitman Vintage) pinpoint OCBD, thrifted $5
Tie: Vintage Abercrombie & Fitch, thrifted $2
Pants: Dockers Alpha Khaki, courtesy of Dockers 
Shoes: Red Wing Wabasha Oxford Boat Shoe
Socks: Brooks Bros., Nordstrom Rack $5

Fall Preview: Dockers Alpha Khaki and Tweed…

My favorite season is fall. It’s not too hot, it’s not too cold, and one can wear layers. Oh, and the tweed gets to come out of storage. I’ve been thinking about ways to wear some of the great colors of Alpha Khakis that Dockers recently sent me, and as soon as I found this jacket I knew these were the pants to go with it. 

I bought this jacket last week at a Salvation Army “$3 for (almost) everything” sale, and am really looking forward to wearing it this fall and winter. It’s a vintage Hart Schaffner & Marx tweed jacket and is quite professorial…

I’m pairing the dark olive herringbone jacket here with a pair of dark blue/charcoal greyish looking pair of Dockers Alpha Khakis in a color called Smokey Aqua. I think dark grey (or navy blue) and olive work beautifully together, and are a solid enough base on which to begin thinking about injecting a little character and being a little more bold with your neckwear or sock choice/s. 

I’ve opted here to cut through some of the fog of the fall weather with a touch of red. The socks are quite bold, and play nicely with the red in the tie, which itself has the same bluish-grey that is the color of the pants. An outfit like this cries out for a rugged shoe that can tromp through mud on the way to deliver a lecture. These Red Wing Wabasha Oxfords fit the bill perfectly.

*     *     *     *     *

Jacket: Hart Schaffner & Marx, thrifted $3

Shirt: Vintage Gitman Bros. (not Gitman Vintage) pinpoint OCBD, thrifted $5

Tie: Vintage Abercrombie & Fitch, thrifted $2

Pants: Dockers Alpha Khaki, courtesy of Dockers 

Shoes: Red Wing Wabasha Oxford Boat Shoe

Socks: Brooks Bros., Nordstrom Rack $5

On the day I post about summer sneakers it feels like fall…
I found these Red Wing chukkas NWOT a few years ago at a Crossroads Trading Co. for about $30…

On the day I post about summer sneakers it feels like fall…

I found these Red Wing chukkas NWOT a few years ago at a Crossroads Trading Co. for about $30…

Taken with instagram
Shirt: Tommy Hilfiger, thrifted $5
Tie: Robert Talbott English Regimental “4th Hussars,” thrifted .50
Pants: Ralph Lauren Rugby University Fit Corduroys, ebay $40
Shoes: Red Wing chukkas, NWOT Crossroads Trading Co. $36

Taken with instagram

Shirt: Tommy Hilfiger, thrifted $5

Tie: Robert Talbott English Regimental “4th Hussars,” thrifted .50

Pants: Ralph Lauren Rugby University Fit Corduroys, ebay $40

Shoes: Red Wing chukkas, NWOT Crossroads Trading Co. $36

Today’s fit.
Boot: Red Wing Chukka, bought NWOT at used clothing store $36
Jeans: Dope and Drakkar, bought at another branch of the above-mentioned store $25. This day was crazy. I found a bunch of Japanese denim in my size for $25 a pop. I find it hard to believe that someone who paid $200-300 for jeans that were still like new would sell them to a shop for about $15 a pop cash, a little more in trade. Oh well, I wasn’t complaining. Got some Full Count, RRL, Sugar Cane, Dope and Drakkar, and Warehouse jeans that day. Sold all the others, gave a pair to a friend, and kept these here. I kinda’ think some dude got robbed, and then someone sold his jeans.
Shirt: Lands’ End Canvas chambray ‘work’ shirt, thrifted $5
Tie: Lands’ End Canvas, on clearance for maybe ~$7
Sweater: J Crew, gift 

Today’s fit.

Boot: Red Wing Chukka, bought NWOT at used clothing store $36

Jeans: Dope and Drakkar, bought at another branch of the above-mentioned store $25. This day was crazy. I found a bunch of Japanese denim in my size for $25 a pop. I find it hard to believe that someone who paid $200-300 for jeans that were still like new would sell them to a shop for about $15 a pop cash, a little more in trade. Oh well, I wasn’t complaining. Got some Full Count, RRL, Sugar Cane, Dope and Drakkar, and Warehouse jeans that day. Sold all the others, gave a pair to a friend, and kept these here. I kinda’ think some dude got robbed, and then someone sold his jeans.

Shirt: Lands’ End Canvas chambray ‘work’ shirt, thrifted $5

Tie: Lands’ End Canvas, on clearance for maybe ~$7

Sweater: J Crew, gift