Broke and Bespoke

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Another sweet Luxire OCBD collar roll, this time in the Pale Pink Classic Oxford.

bloodnblue asked: Hi, that Luxire shirt looks awesome. How did you specify the collar and is the fabric Brembana's blue uni-stripe oxford?

I’ve received a number of questions asking about the collar dimensions and construction on the Luxire OCBD I’ve been posting pictures of the past couple of days. I thought it might be easiest to just publish the answer here for the sake of efficiency. 

I asked for an unlined collar with 3.5” collar points and a nice collar roll. I also sent along a couple of pictures of collar rolls I wanted roughly replicated with my order. I think the unlined collar works well with heavier fabrics like an oxford cloth, but if you wanted something lighter like a poplin or an end-on-end I think a light unfused lining might be preferable. You would still get a nice roll and it would likely loan the collar a bit more structural integrity, especially on hotter and/or more humid days.

The fabric used is the Brembana ‘Blueish Green University Stripe.’ The Blue University Stripe has a lighter blue stripe against a brighter white background. The ‘Blueish Green University Stripe’ has a slightly more vintage appeal to my eye.

For reference, here’s another picture of the collar in question:

image

Thanks, as always, for reading the blog, and I hope this answers your questions!

Jason

The Luxire OCBD: Another View

The Luxire OCBD: Another View

The Luxire OCBD Collar Roll. More on this to come…

The BB OCBD: Brooks Brothers vs. Brooks Brothers Red Fleece

For those of you who have been faced, as I was not long ago, with the dilemma of finding Brooks Brothers’ Red Fleece OCBDs on sale for about $25 and wondering how their collar rolls are, I give you this.

The collar points on the Red Fleece OCBDs are much shorter than those on regular Brooks Brothers ones. We’re talking 3.25” on the regular BB, and a hair under 3” on the Red Fleece (this is even shorter than the Uniqlo OCBDs collar points, which are right at 3” by my measurement). Though the construction on the Red Fleece is not as nice as on the regular line (I find this is especially so regarding the buttons), it’s perfectly fine, and should hold up to hard and frequent use quite well. 

The Red Fleece shirt is also shorter, which makes it great as a casual OCBD to be worn untucked with jeans or chinos, and without a tie. For ~$25, I’m fine with that as its purpose. They also have the nice added touch of an additional button at the back of the collar.

The fit throughout the body is similar to Brooks’ regular Extra Slim Fit I think, and the Red Fleece size ‘Large’ is a tad tighter throughout the body and neck than a 16.5x34 ESF, so I’d say it’s probably comparable to a 16x34 in the ESF.

Overall, despite the shorter collar points—the roll still has a decent shape to it, it’s just kind of short—I find myself wearing my two Red Fleece OCBDs at least once a week these days. I’ve mostly worn them under a crewneck sweater with some additional outerwear layer, but my look has been quite casual these past few weeks.

Outtake.

Outtake.

Up top. Down low. Blue and green. 

More casual looks from last week.

Uniqlo’s OCBD is on sale for $19.90
Uniqlo’s OCBD is currently on sale for a hair under $20. They’re not the best, and they’re not the worst, and at $20 I think they’re well worth it if: 1) you don’t plan on wearing it with a tie as the collar points are a bit short, and the roll isn’t that great (bow ties are ok in my book, since they cover up a bit of the roll); 2) you fit well into their S, M, L, XL sizing—for what it’s worth the L fits someone who’s a 16/34 quite well, and comes in a bit slimmer and shorter than Brooks Brothers’ Slim Fit OCBD. The latter is a bonus if you ever plan on wearing yours untucked. 
I own several of these OCBDs from over the years (they used to be a fuller cut) and they hold up really well to hard wear and frequent washing (no loose threads or buttons yet). They’re a great affordable, casual beat-around shirt. 

Uniqlo’s OCBD is on sale for $19.90

Uniqlo’s OCBD is currently on sale for a hair under $20. They’re not the best, and they’re not the worst, and at $20 I think they’re well worth it if: 1) you don’t plan on wearing it with a tie as the collar points are a bit short, and the roll isn’t that great (bow ties are ok in my book, since they cover up a bit of the roll); 2) you fit well into their S, M, L, XL sizing—for what it’s worth the L fits someone who’s a 16/34 quite well, and comes in a bit slimmer and shorter than Brooks Brothers’ Slim Fit OCBD. The latter is a bonus if you ever plan on wearing yours untucked. 

I own several of these OCBDs from over the years (they used to be a fuller cut) and they hold up really well to hard wear and frequent washing (no loose threads or buttons yet). They’re a great affordable, casual beat-around shirt. 

The Placketless OCBD Strikes Again

The Placketless OCBD Strikes Again

Lazy Sunday…

Shirt: J. Lawrence Khaki’s Washed OCBD, courtesy of Khaki’s of Carmel

Jeans: J. Crew, clearance $27

Shoes: Allen Edmonds ‘Castine’, thrifted $17

Taka of Liverano made quite a splash the other day with his combination of a red striped shirt, brown linen jacket, and navy grenadine tie which was posted on The Armoury’s tumblr.

I thought I might post a version of this combo that I think is quite versatile season to season, as long as the weight of the fabrics in it are appropriate for the weather. Here’s a fairly casual summery version of it, with a light unlined jacket, some lightweight cotton chinos, and suede longwings.

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Jacket: LBM 1911, purchased on Yoox with a VISA gift card (I get a couple of these a year from work, and generally buy something on clearance from Yoox with them)

Shirt: Brooks Brothers University Striped OCBD, thrifted $5

Tie: PRL Navy Grenadine, thrifted $4

Pants: Gant Rugger Chinos, Jeremy’s $11

Shoes: John Doe Suede ‘Connor’ Longwing, courtesy of John Doe Shoes

Casual, basic, and tres Americain.

Casual, basic, and tres Americain.

Details.

Details.

English Silk Repp

English Silk Repp