Broke and Bespoke

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Another sweet Luxire OCBD collar roll, this time in the Pale Pink Classic Oxford.

Madras and End-on-End for Spring

I went thrifting for the first time in awhile the other day. This guy makes me feel like thrifting is no longer worth it around here (to you, Ian, I tip my cap…), and I just haven’t found the time or the energy to get behind it with the same verve as I used to.

I think this is both because I’ve become a much more discerning thrifter, and I rarely buy to flip any more. Things I would have bought no questions asked a couple of years ago, I now leave for someone else to add to their wardrobe, or to sell on ebay. Now that I have a steady job and too many clothes, I figure I ought to pay it forward as often as possible. But, as I’ve got a week off from work right now, one of the first things I did was check out a couple of thrifts that I haven’t been to in awhile. Old habits die hard, and so on.

Don’t get me wrong, this was no big score. But I did pick up a couple of things that I think will be great for the warmer weather. The first is this USA-made BB green end-on-end button down. I love wearing lightweight end-on-ends when the weather gets a little hot, and I can see myself in this one a lot over the next few months with the sleeves rolled up, paired with some jeans and sneakers. Maybe I’ll tuck it in, and wear it with no tie, an unstructured sport coat, and some suede loafers or chukkas. It was $9. There were a bunch of other BB shirts from the same donor I think, and I now regret leaving behind a whimsical patchwork OCBD. Oh well…

The next item is a great older madras tie from Lands’ End. Not only are the saturated colors and pattern stunning, but I love the imperfections in the weave itself like the blue spot you can see in the above picture. I think I’ll definitely be wearing this one as the temperatures rise here in the next month or so. The best part of this was that the store was having a 60% off all men’s clothing and accessories sale, so the tie cost me $1.14.

Three collars: Lands’ End, J. Crew, Jos. A. Bank (an old made in HK one with a soft collar and a nice roll—one of my favorite thrifted casual shirts).

Three collars: Lands’ End, J. Crew, Jos. A. Bank (an old made in HK one with a soft collar and a nice roll—one of my favorite thrifted casual shirts).

I love the last, welt (esp. the contrast of the stitching), grain, and color on these vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial derbys. They weigh a ton, but feel nearly indestructible for it. I think I’ll try to wear them a bit more often than I do, as they’re a perfect shoe for the more casual jeans, OCBD, and odd jacket look I’ve been favoring lately.

bloodnblue asked: Hi, that Luxire shirt looks awesome. How did you specify the collar and is the fabric Brembana's blue uni-stripe oxford?

I’ve received a number of questions asking about the collar dimensions and construction on the Luxire OCBD I’ve been posting pictures of the past couple of days. I thought it might be easiest to just publish the answer here for the sake of efficiency. 

I asked for an unlined collar with 3.5” collar points and a nice collar roll. I also sent along a couple of pictures of collar rolls I wanted roughly replicated with my order. I think the unlined collar works well with heavier fabrics like an oxford cloth, but if you wanted something lighter like a poplin or an end-on-end I think a light unfused lining might be preferable. You would still get a nice roll and it would likely loan the collar a bit more structural integrity, especially on hotter and/or more humid days.

The fabric used is the Brembana ‘Blueish Green University Stripe.’ The Blue University Stripe has a lighter blue stripe against a brighter white background. The ‘Blueish Green University Stripe’ has a slightly more vintage appeal to my eye.

For reference, here’s another picture of the collar in question:

image

Thanks, as always, for reading the blog, and I hope this answers your questions!

Jason

The Luxire OCBD: Another View

The Luxire OCBD: Another View

The Luxire OCBD Collar Roll. More on this to come…

It was a little cooler yesterday, so I swapped out the unlined sport coat for something a little warmer. OCBD, jeans, and suede loafers remain.

Suede for Spring.

Suede for Spring.

I foresee much of my Spring/Summer uniform looking like some version of this: button down collar shirt sans tie, unlined sport coat, jeans, suede chukkas or loafers. Today it’s Brooks Brothers, LBM 1911, Drake’s, Red Cotton Denim, and Allen Edmonds.

Everlane Card Case now $40

Some of you may remember that I bought this card case from Everlane a few months ago, and was quite a fan (you can read the review here). I was just surfing their site the other day because I’d been contacted about their new shirt shop, and saw that the wallet has been reduced $5 from the original release price of $45, which is what I paid. At first I thought they’d perhaps moved production of the wallet from Spain to China, but that doesn’t appear to be the case.

I was already quite impressed by the quality of the wallet (nice full grain leather, made in Spain, cool angled pockets, and a very slim profile) at $45, and was further impressed to see that they’d decided to drop the price a further $5, down to $40.

At that price, this is one of the best deals I’ve seen for a nice solid quality leather card case wallet. Though I carry my Chester Mox wallet on most days, whenever I wear a suit and need something that takes up very little space, this gets slipped into my interior chest pocket. It fits your license, a credit card or two, and a few folded bills perfectly. For a day/night out, there’s not much more you need than that (except maybe bills of a higher denomination than that shown here). 

Everlane has added a few more colors of this wallet since I bought mine (the one in the pictures above is the Burgundy), including a nice dark brown (Espresso) and a sky blue (Lake).

Everlane is a site which requires membership to make a purchase, so if you’re not already a member please feel free to use my invite link: here.

Oxford Cloth and Cashmere.

Oxford Cloth and Cashmere.

Louis Walton Ties, Catch ‘em While You Still Can…
I was sad to receive an email from Gregory Walton—the craftsman behind the Louis Walton ties and leather goods label—a couple of weeks ago letting me know he was taking a break from producing his handmade ties and leather accessories. I first met Greg at the vendor’s showcase at StyleForvm’s 10th Anniversary festivities a couple of years ago, and it’s always a delight to run into him at the local menswear-related events (he’s based in San Francisco). 
Gregory makes all Louis Walton items himself by hand, and I can speak from experience to the fact that he’s a dedicated artisan, and that his ties and leather goods are very nice indeed. I don’t know the details behind Gregory’s decision, but I wish him well in whatever ventures lie ahead. For those of you who don’t already own one of Greg’s pieces, what’s still left on the site is all there’s gonna be…for the foreseeable future at least. I’m thinking about picking up a navy or forest green ‘garza piccola’ grenadine tie myself.  
To nab something up before it’s too late, check in here for what limited remaining stock Greg has on hand.

Louis Walton Ties, Catch ‘em While You Still Can…

I was sad to receive an email from Gregory Walton—the craftsman behind the Louis Walton ties and leather goods label—a couple of weeks ago letting me know he was taking a break from producing his handmade ties and leather accessories. I first met Greg at the vendor’s showcase at StyleForvm’s 10th Anniversary festivities a couple of years ago, and it’s always a delight to run into him at the local menswear-related events (he’s based in San Francisco). 

Gregory makes all Louis Walton items himself by hand, and I can speak from experience to the fact that he’s a dedicated artisan, and that his ties and leather goods are very nice indeed. I don’t know the details behind Gregory’s decision, but I wish him well in whatever ventures lie ahead. For those of you who don’t already own one of Greg’s pieces, what’s still left on the site is all there’s gonna be…for the foreseeable future at least. I’m thinking about picking up a navy or forest green ‘garza piccola’ grenadine tie myself.  

To nab something up before it’s too late, check in here for what limited remaining stock Greg has on hand.

Penfield’s ‘Gibson’ Hudson Wax Jacket

It’s been raining quite a bit here lately, which is good. Though we’re nowhere near out of the woods yet on the drought, every drop counts. The recent rains no doubt helped tip me over the edge recently when I decided to purchase the Penfield ‘Gibson’ jacket from J. Crew. I’ve received a number of messages over the last week or so about this jacket, and I figured I might as well snap some pictures and write a few words about it.

I normally don’t buy things at full retail, but a number of factors conspired to push me over the edge on this one. I didn’t really need another rain jacket, as I have several that serve the same purpose as this one here, including a North Face ‘Decagon 2.0’ jacket in a nice bright green that I recently thrifted. But, as fate would have it, I was in a nearby J. Crew recently with my wife and checking out the menswear section as she shopped around when I came across this jacket.

I generally find the third-party things that J. Crew sells to be quite overpriced, but I really liked the detailing on this jacket so I thought I’d try it on just for kicks. It felt comfortable, and when I looked in the mirror I was a little surprised by how much I liked how I looked in it. It was flattering. To be more precise, I felt like it made me look thinner than I actually am (people who have seen me wear it in person may debate this, but whether real or imagined, it’s how I felt it looked). The slimming effect of the jacket naturally made me want to buy it, and so I took a glance at the price tag assuming its revelation would make me walk away. Though by no means cheap at $150, it was about $100 less than what I was expecting it to cost. I guess that planted a bug in me.

I went home and looked up the jacket online to see if I might find it cheaper somewhere else, but $150 seemed to be about the going rate. So I went back to J. Crew the next day and bought it. I think it’s the first item of clothing I’ve ever bought at full retail from J. Crew, and it’s certainly more than I’ve spent on a tech-y rain jacket before, but I really like it and am quite happy I made the purchase. Though the cognoscenti would no doubt disagree, I feel like this jacket is like a more affordable version of a nanamica. And while I can’t justify spending $600+ on a rain coat, I can just about do $150.