Broke and Bespoke

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Portrait of a Dandy 

Jacket: Cable Car Clothiers, thrifted $8.50

Shirt: Brooks Brothers OCBD, thrifted $3.50

Tie: Kilsby Ancient Madder, thrifted .50

Pocket Square: no name, thrifted $1

Pants: Levi’s 510 slim fit, ~$30

Shoes: Ed Et Al., courtesy of Ed Et Al. Shoes

Yesterday x 3

So yesterday I promised I’d write a little more about this jacket that I recently thrifted for $10. It’s a beautiful vintage Haspel seersucker double breasted jacket originally made for Lord & Taylor’s men’s shop. When, I’m not sure, but the label makes me suspect it was some time in the 1960s. Others will know better than I, I’m sure.

Haspel is still around today, and they continue to specialize in seersucker. But this particular jacket struck me as an extraordinary piece because, despite its apparent age, its styling has clearly proven timeless—or at least timely twice in half a century. It has very light shoulder padding, is 3/4 lined, has no canvassing, and has dual vents—which is pretty rare in my experience for older American-made garments. The American style has long been dominated by the center vent (though the current menswear trend seems to be changing this tendency, and pushing it more towards the dual vents), and the center hook vent if you desire that most rarefied of American styles: the Ivy League look.

I was so taken by the quality and detailing on the jacket (if you look closely at the last picture, and the picture of the Haspel label, you can see that rather than having taped seams throughout the interior of the jacket, the cut fabric edges are handsewn to prevent fraying), that I violated one my cardinal thrifting principles to buy it.

There were some stains on the jacket, nothing disgusting, but stains nonetheless—mostly some yellowing from age and long-term storage in non-ideal conditions I think. But usually, if an item has a stain on it, I leave it for someone else without a second thought. But I agonized over this jacket, and finally decided to go ahead and bite the bullet on it and hope the dry cleaner could remove the staining. I figured that if the stains remained, I’d try to dip-dye the jacket, which could have been pretty cool.

In any case, the stains came out for the most part, and the barely perceptible ones that remain are so minor that even someone as anal as myself can live with them for now. I guess the moral of the story, if one is required, is that some rules are made to be broken.

WIWT.
Watch: 1967 Seiko Presmatic, thrifted $15
Jacket: Vintage Haspel double breasted seersucker jacket (more on this later), thrifted $10
Shirt: Lands’ End tailored fit, $12
Pants: Dockers Alpha Khaki, $30
Shoes: Rockport Penny Loafers, ebay $25

WIWT.

Watch: 1967 Seiko Presmatic, thrifted $15

Jacket: Vintage Haspel double breasted seersucker jacket (more on this later), thrifted $10

Shirt: Lands’ End tailored fit, $12

Pants: Dockers Alpha Khaki, $30

Shoes: Rockport Penny Loafers, ebay $25

Double Breasted.
Shoes: Florsheim Royal Imperial Longwings, thrifted $13
Pants: Dockers Alpha Khakis, $30
Jacket: Cable Car Clothiers tweed jacket, thrifted $8.50

Double Breasted.

Shoes: Florsheim Royal Imperial Longwings, thrifted $13

Pants: Dockers Alpha Khakis, $30

Jacket: Cable Car Clothiers tweed jacket, thrifted $8.50

i hope this sun persists…

i hope this sun persists…

Taken with instagram
Happy Valentine’s Day

Taken with instagram

Happy Valentine’s Day

Got my haircut today, and that means stopping by one of my favorite thrift shops that’s just down the street to buy ties afterwards. I did buy a few ties, but also found this fantastic tweed double breasted number from San Francisco’s storied Cable Car Clothiers, the city’s self-proclaimed ”British Goods Store.” It’s a store that looks amazing to visit, with goods I could never dream of affording. I have several of their silk regimentals, which I always love coming across.

I’ve been on the lookout for a nice tweed double breasted jacket for eons, but they’re always too padded in the shoulders, and/or unvented. This one is neither. To boot, it was only $8.50! You better believe I’ll be getting some good wear out of this before Spring…

Love everything about this, except maybe the tie should be a little wider…

Love everything about this, except maybe the tie should be a little wider…

(Source: apodora, via thisandthatstyle)