Broke and Bespoke

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Three roll to two.

Three roll to two.

dacuze asked: Hi there. The recent posts about the luxire OCBDs have me seriously considering ordering some for myself. Do you think submitting pictures led to a better product, and if so, how did you actually do that through the luxire website? Additionally, did you input all of your measurements for your shirts or did you rely on their sizing? I really appreciate everything you do with your blog and your taking the time to field my unnecessarily specific question. Best, Dan

Hey Dan,

I hope you don’t mind my answering this publicly, as I’ve received a few other questions asking about ordering from Luxire. If you do, message me and I can take this down.

I’ve always sent photos along with my Luxire orders when I wasn’t just having them duplicate something they’d already made for me, so I can’t speak to the down/upsides of not doing so. The Luxire affiliate thread on StyleForum will be an invaluable resource if you’re wanting more information than a person can reasonably handle about ordering from there (incl. a google spreadsheet of different collars that members have ordered that you can specify by order #). When I ordered my first shirt, I just followed the instructions about how to measure a well-fitting shirt I already owned. For my second order, I tweaked a few measurements based on the shirt they sent me (e.g., increasing the waist, widening the armhole, etc.) and am now very happy with the fit. I may, for my next order, alter a few things by 1/8”-1/4”, but am debating whether or not to mess with what I have now as it’s better fitting than any other shirt I own. 

As for how to submit pictures, there’s a ‘notes’ section you can fill out when you order where you can input very specific instructions (e.g., collar point length, collar band height, tie space, etc.) including links to pictures for inspiration or replication. 

Hope this helps!

Jason

Casual

Jacket: J. Crew, thrifted $17

Shirt: Luxire MTM OCBD, $69

Jeans: Red Cotton Denim, c/o RCD 

Shoes: Walk-Over Chocolate Suede Derbys, thrifted $17

Everyone needs a white OCBD. This one’s from Luxire in their ‘White Warzone Oxford' cloth. Though I'm not so long-in-the-tooth, I can well imagine that this is the kind of robust cotton oxford that your typical collegiate store might sell their OCBDs in back in the Ivy heyday.

Everyone needs a white OCBD. This one’s from Luxire in their ‘White Warzone Oxford' cloth. Though I'm not so long-in-the-tooth, I can well imagine that this is the kind of robust cotton oxford that your typical collegiate store might sell their OCBDs in back in the Ivy heyday.

You Know You Have Too Many Neckties When: These two serve different purposes in your mind… 
Ties: Vintage Brooks Brothers and Vintage Neiman Marcus (by whom, I don’t know)

You Know You Have Too Many Neckties When: These two serve different purposes in your mind… 

Ties: Vintage Brooks Brothers and Vintage Neiman Marcus (by whom, I don’t know)

Dark Indigo Denim Chambray from Luxire

This shirting never jumped out at me on Luxire’s website as the representation of it there looks quite a bit lighter than it is in real life. Perhaps the shirt on the site has been washed and faded to show that process over time. In any case, I did see a picture of a shirt made up in this fabric in the Luxire affiliate thread over on StyleForum and was quite taken with it and added one to my big order. 

I think it looks quite good unbuttoned with a sport coat. I’ll be very curious to see how it softens and fades over time.

Saphir Renovateur Saturday. Wore the Ed Et Al. Adelaides whilst chaperoning prom this weekend…

Saphir Renovateur Saturday. Wore the Ed Et Al. Adelaides whilst chaperoning prom this weekend…

Custom Jeans from Red Cotton Denim

I dropped in at Camillo Love’s workshop earlier this week to collaborate on creating a custom pattern for my ideal jean. To be honest, Camillo did most of the work. I just said things like, “I’d like the thighs to be a little tighter. Tight enough to make my legs look skinnier, and maybe longer, but not so tight to accentuate the fact that my legs are neither…” 

I picked the jeans up today and have to say I’m really happy with them. They’re quite slim without being skinny. These are made up in the black 12 oz. Cone Mills denim that Camillo’s using these days, but I think I might order another pair to be made in a lighter weight blue denim for the summer weather.

Though making custom jeans isn’t a new thing for Camillo (he first started by making custom jeans for women), it’s a new option on the website. If you’re interested in commissioning a pair for yourself, just contact Camillo through the Red Cotton Denim website and I’m sure he’d be happy to get the process going.

(pictures courtesy of QB Young Veezy)

Tie: Brooks Brothers, thrifted $5
I hit up a local Goodwill this weekend and picked up this BB tie which was NWT. Interestingly, I own its matching number in a dusky olive—also purchased at a thrift NWT. Apparently this was an unpopular gift that season…

Tie: Brooks Brothers, thrifted $5

I hit up a local Goodwill this weekend and picked up this BB tie which was NWT. Interestingly, I own its matching number in a dusky olive—also purchased at a thrift NWT. Apparently this was an unpopular gift that season…

New Pocket Square
My wife’s childhood best friend has been visiting us over the last few days. She’s a costume designer who works in LA, and she made this pocket square for me as a gift.
The silk is a remnant from a film she worked on awhile back, the 2004 Viggo Mortensen vehicle about famed American long-distance horse racer Frank Tompkins, who raced an American mustang named ‘Hidalgo’ across the Sahara against Bedouins atop Arabian purebreds in the last decade of the nineteenth century. I’ve never seen the film, but I assume the American mustang wins in the end against great odds. Whether this tale is apocryphal or not I can’t say, as it exceeds the boundaries of my historical knowledge. 
What I can say, however, is that this pocket square is awesome. Apparently the silk is from a market in Morocco, where the film was shot. It’s hard to tell from the picture, but it’s a wonderful pink silk with purple accents throughout. It looks to me like it could be Shibori dyed, but I’m not certain. The edges are finished with a nice handsewn hem. More pictures to come…

New Pocket Square

My wife’s childhood best friend has been visiting us over the last few days. She’s a costume designer who works in LA, and she made this pocket square for me as a gift.

The silk is a remnant from a film she worked on awhile back, the 2004 Viggo Mortensen vehicle about famed American long-distance horse racer Frank Tompkins, who raced an American mustang named ‘Hidalgo’ across the Sahara against Bedouins atop Arabian purebreds in the last decade of the nineteenth century. I’ve never seen the film, but I assume the American mustang wins in the end against great odds. Whether this tale is apocryphal or not I can’t say, as it exceeds the boundaries of my historical knowledge. 

What I can say, however, is that this pocket square is awesome. Apparently the silk is from a market in Morocco, where the film was shot. It’s hard to tell from the picture, but it’s a wonderful pink silk with purple accents throughout. It looks to me like it could be Shibori dyed, but I’m not certain. The edges are finished with a nice handsewn hem. More pictures to come…

The anatomy of a Luxire OCBD…