Broke and Bespoke

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Jacket: Brando, Yoox

Shirt: Luxire

Tie: No-name Ancient Madder, thrifted

Pocket Square: J. Crew

Ancient Madder

Ancient Madder

Summer casual

Jacket: Linen Brooks Brothers, thrifted

Shirt: Luxire

Pocket Square: J. Crew

Jeans: Red Cotton Denim

Shoes: Rancourt & Co. for Club Monaco

The dog days of summer…

The dog days of summer…

My newest footwear. Rancourt & Co. for Club Monaco beefroll penny loafers in burgundy suede from the recent 40% off sale. A bit louder than I go for shoes, but I can actually see myself wearing these quite a bit in the next several months.

Ordering This Collar from Luxire

I’ve received a number of messages asking about the collar details on my Luxire button down collar shirts, and how to specify/reproduce the collar for an order.

Luxire makes things quite easy by allowing any customer to reference previous orders by order # if they would like the same style collar, shoulder, placket detail, etc.

And if you go to StyleForum’s Luxire affiliate thread you can find a link to an incredibly helpful google spreadsheet organized by SF member Timotune, aka blazerandtie.tumblr.com, that has a bunch of cool collars on it including customer approximations of some great shirt collars from various makers.

If you’re interested in the collar in the OCBD pictured above, you can order it by referencing Order #7921. The collar is lightly lined and unfused, and the collar band has an extra-light fused lining to help the collar stand up better. I highly recommend the latter option, especially for lighter weight poplins, end-on-ends, chambrays, etc.

Hope this helps!

Jacket: Brioni for Wilkes-Bashford, thrifted $20
Shirt: Luxire Classic Blue Oxford, $59
Tie: Ben Silver, thrifted $2

Jacket: Brioni for Wilkes-Bashford, thrifted $20

Shirt: Luxire Classic Blue Oxford, $59

Tie: Ben Silver, thrifted $2

Though I’m no fan of USC (Go Bears!), I am a fan of this Ben Silver tie I thrifted. It’s been buried under my many other ties for a couple of years now, but I’m hoping to wear it more soon.

Though I’m no fan of USC (Go Bears!), I am a fan of this Ben Silver tie I thrifted. It’s been buried under my many other ties for a couple of years now, but I’m hoping to wear it more soon.

Suede shoes are great, and one of my favorite times to wear them is during the transition from summer to fall. I just ordered a pair of Rancourt & Co. burgundy suede beefroll penny loafers from Club Monaco’s recent extra 40% sale and am looking forward to incorporating them into my footwear rotation in the next couple of months. I’ll be sure to post some pics of those when they arrive next week.

Shown above L to R and top to bottom are suede ‘Connor’ longwings by John Doe, Allen Edmonds (AE) ‘Amok’ chukkas, AE ‘Mojave’ crepe-soled chukkas, AE for RL snuff suede penny loafers, and Velasca’s ‘L’Innamoraa’ suede double monks (review to come).   

The Classic Blue OCBD

I’ve been wearing a lot of blue OCBDs casually this summer as I go on hikes and to the dog park with my new dog, Clio. OCBDs are famous for their ability to be dressed up or down (much has been written on this elsewhere and I won’t bore you with my derivative version here), and these days my favorite one is the Classic Blue Oxford from Luxire.

There are a few reasons I think it’s great. One is the collar roll. Since Luxire makes custom shirts, you can specify every detail of the collar to best reproduce the classic OCBD collar rolls of mid-century Brooks Brothers, contemporary Mercer & Sons, or something more Italian a la Barba, etc. I’ve dialed in a collar that I’m pretty happy with worn buttoned or unbuttoned.

At $59 for the Classic Blue Oxford, Luxire’s price is very competitive. It’s not the cheapest you’ll find—I think Target sells a nice OCBD through its Merona line, and Uniqlo also has a solid one which I’ve written about before. What you don’t get from those less expensive options however, is a collar with a great roll. If that’s not a huge concern of yours, and money is, then by all means I think Target and Uniqlo offer great options. If a great roll is your end game though, I think it’s probably hard to beat Luxire.

Prior to getting some custom OCBDs made up by Luxire, I often scoured thrifts, ebay, and various menswear classified boards for new or gently used Brooks Brothers Made in USA Supima Cotton OCBDs in their slim and extra slim fits. Those collars have a very good roll to them, and were very nicely made to boot. Colors were limited however, and even for a nice used specimen prices started climbing over the $20 mark.

So I ultimately settled on ordering some shirts from Luxire. There are plenty of oxford cottons priced at $60, and the ability to specify every dimension of a shirt at that cost seemed a bargain—especially compared to Brooks’ retail prices, and even compared to their several annual sale prices.

In any case…since I’m not editing this, and to forestall a descent into some tangential bloviating about nothing new (menswear blogging is fast becoming a paradigmatic example of ‘repetition with a difference’), I just wanted to post today about the fabric on Luxire’s Classic Blue Oxford, and say a few things about it that I prefer to Brooks Brothers’ Supima USA-made OCBDs that I hope you may find of use.

The Luxire oxford is made in Italy by Brembana, and is thinner than the Brooks Brothers Supima. I prefer this, as the BB one can feel a bit thick at times (though I admit there are situations when the heavier BB one is nice, i.e., on a cool day under a sweater, etc.). The lighter fabric makes it better for wearing under summer-weight sport coats, but is not too delicate to be worn with heavy tweed in the winter. The Luxire cloth is very soft, though in a different way than the BB. I imagine that neither one will feel ‘rough’ to the touch or against the skin. Though they both take an iron well, I prefer to hang mine up right out of the dryer and to wear them au naturel. To be sure, they’re both great shirts, but if you’ve got $60 to spend on an OCBD I think you’ll have a lot more fun with the Luxire.

Shirt: Luxire Classic Blue Oxford, $59

Tie: Ben Silver, thrifted $2

Pocket Squares

Pocket Squares

Suit: PRL by Corneliani, thrifted $24
Shirt: Luxire Pink End-on-End, $69
Tie: Etro, thrifted $2

Suit: PRL by Corneliani, thrifted $24

Shirt: Luxire Pink End-on-End, $69

Tie: Etro, thrifted $2

I got some new pocket squares for my birthday. One Kent Wang ancient madder, and two wool ones from J. Crew for the fall. 

Three patch pockets.

Three patch pockets.

Linen and Cotton.

Linen and Cotton.